This multidimensional Hawke’s Bay chardonnay gives flinty smoke signals, intermingled with roasted nuts, brioche and gentle acidity. A bonfire on the beach takes a bit of time to get going. Wet wood, wind off the water, distractions – leading to unintentional smoke signals. Neighbours a kilometre downwind know what’s happening in the dunes. Intermingled with fresh loaves from the tiny bakery over the road, a splash of brine and savoury nuttiness. The signals are all positive. Might as well walk over and say “hi”.