AMUSINGS - This is a two-grape job. One delicate, another strong and supportive. But also point-counterpoint. The yeasty lightness cradled by almondy green fruit. Lemon vs. currant. North of Montagne meets Cramant and Avize. Blended, fused and alloyed into one statement as expressive and vivacious as any fin-de-siècle movement.