Gardenias on crisp clean sheets, no blanket. Fragrant, neat and polite. A pyrolytic sweetness so benign you almost can’t trust it, until oak’s upright woodiness sidles in. Plenty big, but different big. Creamy, gooseberries, and yet: no chardonnay heft. Sometimes we don’t want to be weighed down. Gardenias on crisp clean sheets, no blanket. Fragrant, neat and polite. A pyrolytic sweetness so benign you almost can’t trust it, until oak’s upright woodiness sidles in. Plenty big, but different big. Creamy, gooseberries, and yet: no chardonnay heft. Sometimes we don’t want to be weighed down.