A cold slab of oak, serious fruit and unusual chewiness that means for this sauvignon blanc, you don’t shake its hand - it shakes yours. It's chewy for a sav. But never more than passing resistance to the bite. A cold slab of oak. Feet grounded. Almost forceful fruit of the serious kind. Gooseberries. Finger lime. Quince. Acrid ash piping up in the back of the mouth.