This Barossa shiraz is not messing about. Charred and caramelised, almost getting out of hand. Anyone who doesn’t like the burnt bits at the bottom of the pan is a liar. It’s where flavour has risked going too far. Here it’s a smidge of vulcanised rubber, pan-fried lamb’s brains, cocoa powder and currants. A well-steeped tea bag worth of tannin, in the name of savoury depth and scale. Anyway, deglazed artefacts and side-effects are half the fun.